Spouting Cave

Even in a country as blessed with dramatic scenery as Scotland, the Outer Hebrides evoke a special sense of wonder. As well as the varied landscape of these islands, their persistence as a Gaelic stronghold and the Old Norse influences add to their unique intrigue, with place-names such as Frobost, Quidinish, Geocrab, Amhuinnsuidhe, and Tolstachaolais. The bird's-eye shape of the islands evokes something ancient and wild, like dinosaur fossils or the spine of a mountain range. With a week off work, I decided to embark on the much-heralded Hebridean Way cycle route. I arrived at Castlebay, Barra, on a pleasantly bright and warm evening, following a four and a half hour ferry from Oban. Along with a range of other useful advice, my pal Neil had suggested I use the remaining light to cycle to Vatersay. On the winding road out of the village towards the causeway two miles south, I soon reached a very steep hill, passing the mildly-mocking cry of an old man - "You've go